- Noémi Vizi
- Photos: NÖFNkft
- Reading time: 5 minutes
The Fairytale-like Wenckheim Castle of Szabadkígyós
In this article, we visit the jewel box of the Southern Great Plain, the Wenckheim Castle located in Szabadkígyós. The fairytale-like castle, situated approximately 10 km from Békéscsaba, was designed by Miklós Ybl, while the construction work was carried out under the direction of József Nuszbek between 1875 and 18791. The clients were Count Frigyes Wenckheim and his wife, Krisztina. Their enormous estate (including the lands of Békés, Borossebes, Elek, Kígyós, Mosonszentmiklós-Ráró, Póstelek, Székudvar and Pusztaszőlős) covered 13,538 cadastral acres in 1911, so they dreamed of a castle worthy of their wealth in Ókígyós.
János György Harruckern received Kígyóspuszta from Emperor Charles III in 1720 in recognition of his service as Imperial Chief Commissary of Food Supplies and for his outstanding achievements. He later rose to the rank of baron. After his death in 1742, his son Ferenc Harruckern inherited the lands, but when he died in 1775, the male line of the family became extinct2. Through inheritance proceedings, part of the estate eventually came into the possession of the Wenckheim family. Wenckheim (III) József Antal was a chamberlain, so managing the estate was not a challenge for him. Between 1808 and 1831, he had a Classicist-style manor house built as his residence, which still stands today3.
The life of the twice-widowed and childless Count Wenckheim (III) József Antal took a storybook-like turn at the age of 67 when he fell in love with Krisztina Scherz, the 22-year-old daughter of his stewardess. The elderly count’s courtship was not welcomed by the Wenckheim family, but nobody opposed the marriage more strongly than his nephew, Wenckheim (I) Károly, who lived in the Gerla Castle. Since the count had no descendants, Károly would have inherited the enormous fortune. Expressing his disapproval openly, he sent a coffin as a wedding gift with the message: “You do not need a wife, you need this.” The story may sound familiar for a reason: in his novel A Hungarian Nabob, Mór Jókai modelled the main character after Wenckheim (III) József.
A daughter was born from this unusual marriage: Krisztina Annamária Regina Wenckheim (1849–1924), who received the first names of all three of her father’s wives. However, her parents could not enjoy their long-awaited heir for long. Her mother, weakened by childbirth, died a few months later, and the count, unable to recover from yet another loss, passed away three years later. Krisztina was raised by her maternal grandmother, while the estate was managed by senior officials of the domain.
She inherited a huge estate and highly profitable lands, which gave rise to her nickname: “the richest orphan in the country”4. Her father had carefully arranged her education in advance, enabling her to travel throughout Europe. She spoke six languages, drew, played the piano and sang, and even served as a lady-in-waiting to Empress Elisabeth (“Sisi”)sup>5. (In 1893, Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Sisi also visited the Wenckheim family.)
In 1872, Krisztina married Frigyes (I), the son of her cousin, thereby uniting the estates of the two branches of the family. Frigyes was Chief Cupbearer of the Royal Court, chamberlain, privy councillor, and a repeatedly elected member of parliament6. It therefore becomes understandable why they were able to dream of and realise such a magnificent castle. The countess had two important requests for Miklós Ybl: “Everything should be harmonious, everything should be comfortable, but nothing should be identical.” She also wished that the castle should have “as many windows as there are days in a year, as many rooms as there are weeks in a year, and as many main entrances as there are seasons.”7 The foundation stone was laid at the beginning of June 1875. Construction took approximately four years, but the creation of the interior spaces required at least the same amount of time. Although the castle was opened in the summer of 1879, the ceremonial inauguration did not take place until 19 July 1882. The building was originally designed as a summer residence. During the winter months, the family stayed in their Budapest palace, which today houses the Ervin Szabó Library9.
The castle, built in the German Neo-Renaissance style, creates a truly fairytale atmosphere with its towers and its Renaissance-inspired loggia terrace. The most modern achievements of the 19th century were also incorporated into the building, including gas lighting. The marble fireplaces were probably installed mainly for decorative purposes, as they were not used for heating; instead, a hot-air heating system provided warmth throughout the castle. In addition, water was pumped from the basement to the tower by a steam engine through iron pipelines.10.
Guests arrived first in the salon, which was truly luxurious, in harmony with the entire castle. The building included a dining room, 30 guest rooms, numerous auxiliary buildings, and a library (which once contained several thousand books, although only 390 have since been returned to their original location)11. There is also a chapel, which was consecrated in 188412. Money was no obstacle during the construction, which cost approximately 1.5 million13,, but the result was exactly the castle that its owners had dreamed of.
A significant part of the castle grounds is still covered by forest today. The English landscape garden was created in the 1870s. Although its designer is unknown, the Wenckheim family maintained a close relationship with József Bolza of Szarvas (better known by his nickname, Count Pepi), so it is possible that they shared the same gardener. (His own garden later became the Szarvas Arboretum.) It must have been a truly magnificent sight.
A drilled well can also be found on the estate. The water of the artesian spring rises from a depth of 335 metres. It was named after Béla Zsigmondy, the engineer who drilled the well, and therefore became known as the Zsigmond Spring. The spring feeds a small lake, which is home to numerous ducks and fish. A small bridge connects it with the inner island, creating a truly romantic atmosphere.
The married couple had an extensive social network, as proven by the silver-clasped guest book preserved in the Ókígyós castle. It contains approximately 24,000 entries documenting visits by aristocrats, politicians, lawyers and teachers. To mention only a few names: Counts Draskovich, Bolza, Teleki, Dessewffy, Csekonics, Zichy, Esterházy, Szapáry and Cziráky, as well as Barons Trauttenberg and Vécsey14. Their residence hosted numerous gatherings and balls. Krisztina and Frigyes had seven children, so one of the buildings on the estate was transformed into a dollhouse15. They also created a playground, a small zoo and even a monkey house. Adults could enjoy their leisure time at the swimming pool, polo and tennis courts, and the estate even had an aircraft landing strip and hangar. This was because József Wenckheim (V) was the first person in Hungary to own a private airplane between the two world wars16.
In August 1944, members of the Wenckheim family left the castle and also fled the country. Escaping the approaching war front, they first went to Vienna and later settled in Algeria. After the Second World War, like most aristocratic residences, the castle was nationalised. An agricultural and food industry vocational school operated here, including both classrooms and a dormitory. The condition of the building deteriorated significantly, and its fate was almost sealed. However, restoration of the castle as a protected historic monument began in 2019, and since 2022 it has welcomed visitors with open doors, allowing them to step into the (not so) everyday life of Count and Countess Wenckheim.
Today, the guest book is kept digitally, meaning that visitors can also become part of the virtual silver-clasped guest book. In the exhibition spaces, visitors can glimpse the count’s and countess’s rooms, and they can also enter the countess’s boudoir and bathroom, where the original bathtub can still be admired. If desired, visitors can climb the 40-metre-high tower, which offers a spectacular view of the surrounding area. While enjoying the panorama, walking among the trees in the forest, or crossing the small bridge above the lake, one can imagine what life might have been like here at the beginning of the 20th century.
If you have the opportunity, be sure to visit the fairytale castle of the Southern Great Plain: the Wenckheim Castle in Szabadkígyós.
1https://szabadkigyosikastely.hu/kastelytortenet/
2https://szabadkigyosikastely.hu/kastelytortenet/
3https://szabadkigyosikastely.hu/kastelytortenet/
5https://demokrata.hu/magyarorszag/a-kigyosi-kastely-titkai-515914/
6https://nof.hu/hu/varak-kastelyok/kastelyparkok/szabadkigyos/
9https://www.turistamagazin.hu/hir/a-kigyosi-puszta-kincsei-amelyek-tel-es-tavasz-kozott-varnak-rank
10https://demokrata.hu/magyarorszag/a-kigyosi-kastely-titkai-515914/
11https://szabadkigyosikastely.hu/kastelytortenet/
13https://szabadkigyosikastely.hu/kastelytortenet/
14https://szabadkigyosikastely.hu/kiallitas/allando-kiallitas/
15https://szabadkigyosikastely.hu/szolgaltatasok/kastelypark/
16https://promenad24.hu/2022/06/04/a-felujitott-szabadkigyosi-wenckheim-kastelyban-jartunk/







